I tried figuring out my pagenation for the publication in relation to the dimensions of my page and also the grid within. This would be a good to do as it will aid me in visualising what my final product will look like. The more mockups I make I reckon the better it will be. I applied my dimensions to my document with was 142mm x 200mm and then placed my grid on each page. Every other page would contain an image within the grid while the other pages remain blank. This means it wont be double sided printed, resembling the front of gravestone and how only one side is worked upon.

I printed my mock up on a thick cartridge paper hopefully having a slight resemblance to the final piece. The black boxes are where my content will eventually go. I made a few mistakes when processing it through the printer at first. I'd have some pages upside down or the order completely wrong. After getting it wrong a couple of times I finally managed to get it how I wanted it to look. I then trimmed it down in size to my preferred dimensions. I did not use crop marks to do this however. Next time I will do so to get a more of an accurate finish on my physical dimensions.



I began several different forms of binding to help me decide which one was the right one for my publication. I knew that I wasn't going to use the perfect binding technique because it required un natural materials to perform the job. I wanted the book to mainly be created with natural materials because this reflects the memorial masons hand craft and the materials they would use. I began with a simple pamphlet stitch with three holes which was probably the easiest one I can do. This was very efficient and clean. The only problem with this was that three holes wasn't enough to support the amount of pages I was using and the book felt flimsy.


To create a tighter bond between the pages I added more holes in my next stitch. This worked perfectly and the book held itself together with great strength. It kept the same aesthetic as the previous bind as well. Very clean, efficient and doesn't distract from the contents inside at all. There was no fault in this process whatsoever and most important of all I only used natural materials to do so.
Another technique I thought I try was the Japanese binding one. I thought if I cut the book in half and split the dimensions once more I could create a a new form for the book. Instead of having the plain space below each image the hole book would just be the area with the photograph. This shape of book matches the Japanese binding perfectly. One thing about this bind is that it seems like part of the books aesthetic and I guess it could tie in with the theme of craftsmanship and presenting all of my hand made natural work.
Finally I attempted the loop bind. This was the really tricky and probably meant for a greater mass of pages then I was intending on using. It seems like the smaller amount of pages the looser it is. I wasn't exactly skilled at this either and it left quite a jarring look to the spine. If I was perhaps making a book with more then 30 pages I might consider using this for a tighter bind but I may have to pass this time.